{"product_id":"crackle-slip","title":"Crackle Slip","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eExplorations into Cone 6 Crackle Slip Ceramic Surfaces\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBy John Britt\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAssisted by Alexandra Barao\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"MsoNormal\"\u003eIn this PDF I explore crackle slip and the best ways to achieve this surface. Although it is primarily cone 6, you can use it at cone 10 and I do have 2 low-fire slips recipes. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eI have been using this Crackle slip recipe for over 30 years and put it in my first book, “The Complete Guide to High-fire Glazes” published by Lark Books in 2004. Although I originally employed this technique in soda and wood firings, I wanted to adapt it for use at cone 6 electric firings to achieve a similar look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"MsoNormal\"\u003eWhile I was working on my latest PDF entitled, “Sculptural Ceramic Surfaces,” I rediscovered my love of this surface. I used it a lot frequently on sculptures I made to mimic aged and excavated bones and skulls, mostly at cone 6 and low-fire. In the past I applied it haphazardly; if applied too thick, it would crack off, while too thin a layer wouldn’t produce a crackle effect. For the skulls and bones, a rough and ragged appearance added to the natural look. Often, I would reapply and refire multiple times until I was satisfied with the surface. However, for more functional work, I felt the need for better control.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"John Britt Pottery","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":53412653400363,"sku":null,"price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0985\/5418\/3979\/files\/CrackleSlip1.111COVER.pdf_1.jpg?v=1778771934","url":"https:\/\/johnbrittpottery.com\/products\/crackle-slip","provider":"John Britt Pottery","version":"1.0","type":"link"}